Collagen is a hot topic in the world of beauty and wellness at the moment. It’s in many kinds of products from lipsticks, gummy bears, lattes and facial serums. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and is a major building block of muscles, skin tendons, ligaments and bones. It’s considered the glue that holds the body together. Focusing on its role in the skin, it provides strength, elasticity and volume. It is abundant in children and youth till the early twenties.
It has a role in supporting cell turnover no matter what the age, naturally.
What happens as we age?
Aging equals collagen levels depleting at approximately 1% per year starting in the early 20s. The timing is also influenced by genetics. Fine lines and slight sagging start subtly and then alarmingly by the 30s and 40s. Skin cells are dividing at a slower rate causing the top layer of the skin (epidermis) to lose moisture and become thinner. Lifestyle factors play a major influence in this natural aging process. Exposure to UV rays from natural sunlight and tanning beds, smoking. pollution and a stressful lifestyle that contribute to elevations of hormones in the body, increase the rapidity of collagen depletion. Refined sugar and white carbs also increase the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin. Unfortunately it is difficult to find any product in a grocery store that doesn’t have some element of sugar. Fruit sugars are not handled by the body in the same way and it does not mean that fruits should be avoided as long as they are eaten in moderation.
Tips for improving and protecting collagen:
- Healthy Sunscreen
The sun is no longer the same that your mother and grandmother grew up being exposed to. It is the ultimate ager, it accelerates the breakdown of collagen fibers allowing the skin to wrinkle.
Physical blockers such as titanium and zinc blends or zinc alone are by far the healthiest and preferred. Chemical blockers have been available for decades and several chemicals or implicated in carcinogenic acceleration of skin cells. It is best to avoid over the counter combos and use a pure physical blocker that is available at medical spas.
- Retinol and Retinoids
It has become evident through several decades of investigation and increased availability how vital it should be in general skin management. It has been proven to be instrumental in stimulating collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin. Retinols increase cell turnover thereby improving skin tone, texture, decreasing pore size and refining chronic scarring as seen with burnt out acne. They also are valuable in management of acute acne, particularly the cystic variety. Retinols are best applied at night to avoid increased Sun sensitivity.
- Peptide Creams
These again have become more sophisticated and available in the last 10 years. Creams and serums are known to stimulate collagen and elastin in the skin improving tone and density of the tissue. These are available in over the counter products but more concentrated and effective when obtained through a medical spa.
- Adding Hydration
Critical in dry and seasonally cold climates, when the skin loses moisture, collagen can’t repair itself. The body requires vitamin C which is a water soluble vitamin. Therefore, if you are dehydrated, the vitamin C cannot be transported to stimulate collagen production. With the refinement in skin care, over the last 15 to 20 years in particular, the last 10 have produced many products that have 10 – 20% vitamin c either as concentrated serums or blended with other vitamins, peptides and antioxidants.
Vitamin C in a diet helps but it’s far more effective being applied directly onto the skin. Vitamin C protects against free radical damage to the skin which accelerates collagen breakdown. There are many healthy choices in daily moisturizers that contain vitamin C and other antioxidants.
- Healthy Eating and Plumper Skin
It’s a good idea to eat vitamin C rich foods such as citrus, berries, bell peppers and broccoli. Other food sources that are rich in collagen include fish, animal bone broths, egg whites and muscle meat. The connective tissue is riddled with collagen. For vegan or vegetarians, your best foods are tofu, lentils, chia seeds and quinoa to supply all the necessary amino acids for collagen production. Overall the general message is: eat more whole grains and avoid/reduce the intake of free sugars and carbs as they prevent collagen from repairing
- Medical Spa Treatments
Technology has significantly advanced in the last 20 years. More and more research and data has supported the development of topical and resurfacing lasers. Some search out a reputable spa and look into special facials and lasers that stimulate the collagen and fibrinogen to rebuild the face. Energy based devices using radio frequency and ultrasound have also raised the bar in anti-aging procedures. Fractional lasers as a general category, have many quality systems for this technology. Laser and Skin Care Medspa has the Cynosure multi-deck system.
Advancements in injecting platelet-rich plasma (microneedling), known as PRP, have further refined the process of rebuilding.
- Blogs to visit
a) The confusing story of sunscreens and sunblocks
b) Understanding sunscreen labeling
c) PRP